One
of the largest and wealthiest of India's
former princely states, Hyderabad built
its fortune on the trade of pearls, gold,
steel, fabric and, above all, diamonds,
which some believe remain hidden beneath
the foundations of Golconda Fort, precursor
to the city some 10km (6 1/4 miles) away.
Once the most famous diamond mining area
in the world, Golconda was where the 108-carat
Koh-i-Noor diamond (not to mention the Orloff,
Regent, and Hope diamonds) was excavated.
It was in fact Golconda's legendary wealth
that attracted the attention of the voracious
Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, and with the aid
of an inside agent he captured the fortress
in 1678. Aurangzeb's invasion marked the
temporary decline of the city, but when
the Mughal empire began to fade, the enterprising
local viceroy, Asaf Jah I, promptly proclaimed
himself Nizam (ruler) and established independent
rule over the Deccan state. Under the notoriously
opulent Nizams of the Asaf Jahi dynasty,
their power cemented by an alliance forged
in 1798 with the British East India Company,
Hyderabad again became a major influence,
and even contributed to the British military
campaigns against the recalcitrant Tipu
Sultan of Mysore.
Hyderabad is more than 400 years old,
but today the state capital of Andhra
Pradesh is as famous for its burgeoning
information technology and biotech research
industries as it is for its minarets.
Like Bangalore, this is one of India's
fastest-growing cities (with a projected
population of 7.5 million by 2015), but
unlike most Indian cities, Hyderabad is
actually getting greener and cleaner.
A substantial part of the city is the
suburb of Cyberabad, where Microsoft and
Oracle are but two major players in the
development known as Hi-Tech City, responsible
for the city's economic upswing.
Despite its newfound attractiveness as
a business destination, the city remains
steeped in history, and you're just as
likely to share the road with camels and
bullock carts, and haggle alongside Muslim
women covered from head to toe in black
burkhas, as you are to converse with cellphone-wielding
yuppies. There may not be much by way
of specific sights to see in Hyderabad,
but it's a pleasantly manageable city
with a vibrant culture, excellent-value
luxury hotels, and a heavenly cuisine
-- perhaps the most enduring legacy of
the decadent tastes and patronage of the
cultured Nizams who first put the city
on the map.
Rich Man, Poor Man--The Nizams of Hyderabad
may have been ousted from power two generations
ago, but their decadent tastes have only
now been curtailed. Mukkaram Jah, grandson
of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad,
is said to have inherited the richest
fortune in the world when his grandfather
died in 1967. Thirty-eight years later,
he lives in Turkey, all but bankrupt,
his wealth -- once said to have been worth
around $750 million -- squandered by a
lavish lifestyle (including four expensive
divorces) or stuck in banks around the
world pending the settlement of innumerable
legal disputes and claims from hundreds
of family members (real and fake) determined
to get their pound of flesh.